The Benefits of Indoor Rock Climbing
November 18, 2011, By Jason Avant 1 comment
Full disclosure: I’m terrified of heights. But for some reason, that was never an issue for me while clinging to a nearly smooth rock face some 50 feet off of the high desert floor. Maybe it was the thick nylon rope that would keep me from splattering across the ground should my feet or hands slip while climbing. Maybe it was the fact that rock climbing requires an unlikely combination of Zen-like relaxation and total focus on the task at hand. Maybe it was the fact that I must have been somewhat insane, balancing on a protrusion of stone no wider than a quarter. Maybe it just boils down to the fact that was I was too afraid of falling to be afraid of falling.
It’s been several years since I’ve done any serious outdoor rock climbing, but from time to time I’ll hit my local rock-climbing gym. Indoor rock climbing is a great way to get some exercise—it’s fun, challenging and develops flexibility as well as upper and lower body strength (despite all appearances, much of the work in climbing is done by the legs; they power you up the wall, while your hands and arms help keep you attached to it). And best of all, it’s something that can be done year-round. If you’re thinking about trying the sport, here are some tips for making the most of your rock gym experience.
- Take a class. Most gyms will offer instruction; many will offer a free lesson as a way of attracting new members. The act of climbing can be quite technical—edging, smearing, heel hooks and mantles are some of the moves you’ll need to learn. In addition, you’ll want to learn how to be the guy at the bottom end of the rope—belaying your partner is a required skill.
- Find a gym that offers the best pricing and hours. Some gyms require members to sign monthly contracts; most allow you to pay per visit. I’m lucky that my local rock gym does offer a monthly rate without requiring a membership agreement. Be warned: the membership rates can be pricey.
- Find a gym that has a bouldering wall. Bouldering is to climbing as the haiku is to poetry. Bouldering “problems” usually consist of a small combination of moves—three to four—to complete. Bouldering can be one of the most challenging and rewarding aspects of climbing, in that the routes often require tremendous technical expertise and physical ability. Another benefit is that gym bouldering does not require a safety rope, whereas longer routes do. It’s a great workout and an excellent way to practice.
- Make sure the gym changes their holds and routes frequently. Indoor rock walls typically have several dozen routes—usually indicated by colored tags on the holds. While you don’t have to follow the routes, a good gym staff creates their routes to challenge climbers of all levels—the holds will vary in shape, size and distance apart from each other. As you progress, you’ll want to mix things up a bit, and a good rock gym staff will rearrange routes on a regular basis to keep things interesting.
- If you enjoy climbing, get your own harness and shoes. Rock climbing gyms do rent climbing harnesses, chalk bags (like gymnasts, climbers use powdered chalk to keep their hands sweat-free), and shoes. If you do get the climbing bug, you’ll eventually want your own gear. Never buy used climbing equipment, as your life may literally depend on it. And never buy a harness or shoes online—you need to try on both to ensure a proper fit. There’s a bit of contention among climbers regarding how tight your shoes should fit. I used to wear climbing shoes that were two sizes smaller than my street shoes. That agonizing squeeze does take some getting used to, and many gym-only climbers opt for shoes that fit like a snug slipper. Regardless, climbing shoes are worn without socks, so wearing a pair that’s been worn by hundreds of sweaty-footed strangers before you…well, it’s worth it to buy your own.
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