Shaving As An Art

August 18, 2010, By Charles Manley 2 comments

There are probably as many different men's shaving techniques as there are barbers with one-liners. Since Alexander the Great started making his soldiers shave before going into battle, men in Western culture have adopted the practice of shaving before work. Though the dangers of beard grabbing during combat were minimal in pedestrian life, the Greeks began importing Sicilian barbers to towns and villages across the Aegean Peninsula. The practice has remained popular ever since.

Today, nearly 3 out of 4 American men shave daily. Some men refer to the simple task of hair removal as the art of shaving. Others treat it as a Zen meditation. Whatever the technique or tools used, the science of modern shaving remains the same.

Proper Wet Shaving Techniques

Keratinocyte cells produce keratin, a fibrous protein. Millions of keratinocyte cells die every day and flake off the skin. Their keratin proteins seal your pores and your beard hairs. This makes your skin tough and your beard hairs coarse. The main science behind the art of shaving relies on removing the keratin enough to allow water and emollients to penetrate the skin and hairs, softening the skin and relaxing the beard hairs.

The first thing to remove from a shaving routine is the sense of urgency. The average male shaves almost 20,000 times in their lifetime. Unless you grow a beard or become the Unabomber, you're not going to get out of it. Turn it into a little bit of "me" time. Relaxing and focusing on each aspect of the shaving routine can help to reduce stress, clear your head and prepare you mentally for the day's schedule.

Shaving first thing in the morning is a bad idea. After lying flat on your back for eight hours, the skin on your face can be incredibly puffy and filled with extra blood. After about 20 minutes being up and about, your circulatory system will return to normal and the swelling in your face will subside. Your skin will return to its normal level of tautness and your beard hairs will come closer to the surface of the skin, allowing for a closer, safer shave.

The real science of shaving starts with cleaning the face. Many men take a shower before shaving. A warm shower softens the skin, makes it more pliable, opens pores and cleans away dirt, grime and keratin. This allows for water to penetrate the skin and hairs, and provides for the most comfortable shave. Soak the face for several minutes before shaving. The coarser the hair, the longer the soak.

According to a study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association, the length of time a man soaks his face directly correlates to the quality of the shave and the longevity of his razor blade. Using incredibly hot water is not necessary, and often detrimental. Hot water can shock the skin and rob it of too many of its natural oils and protections.

Apply a thin layer of shaving cream, shaving gel or shaving soap. Using a shaving brush can help the hairs stand up away from the face. Using too much cream, gel or soap increases your chances of clogging the razor blade unless you use a straight razor. A clogged blade can increase your chances of razor burn and cuts. Allow the emollients in the cream, gel or soap time to moisturize your skin and penetrate your beard hair. They will soften the hairs and skin even further than water if you give them a minute to work their magic.

Shave with the grain of your hair growth, not against the grain. To tell which direction your hair grows, simply rub your hand over your face. Shave in the direction that is smoothest. This is typically going to be in a downward direction on the face and in an upward motion on the neck. Shaving against the grain greatly increases your chances of razor burn, razor bumps and infections. Shaving against the grain cuts the hair too far below the surface of the skin, creating a greater possibility of the hair growing into the skin. If you need a very close shave, most professional barbers will shave once with the grain and then go over the face again lightly in a sideways direction.

Take your time. Imagine each stroke of the razor to be like the stroke of a paint brush. Extra strokes equal extra irritation. Try for one stroke over each patch of face. Lift the razor blade after each pass and rinse the razor often to prevent it from clogging up with gunk.

Once you have completed your shave, wash your face with cool water. This will help seal in moisture. Gently pat it dry with a towel, being careful not to rub your face, which will only lead to irritation.